Post by Tela on Nov 26, 2011 10:15:15 GMT -5
My husband found a thread with good info and condensed the relative information:
The following was condensed from a thread at
andy321.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=5234
Barrels:
The issue with the barrels simply not getting enough traction against the bare steel rollers can be solved in one or a combination of a few different ways depending on the cause(s).
A} your barrel walls may be bulging at the middle (barreled) or caving in slightly at the sides (bowed). Either condition significantly reduces roller contact surface area. Test for this by placing the offending loaded barrel on a level counter top on it's side. Shine a light directly behind it and look from the front where it meets the surface for any arcs of light passing under it. Any measurable distance away from the surface is "zero contact" with the drive roller. Rubber castings don't always cure evenly and can deform slightly over time no matter if they are stored or in use. The only way to correct this realistically would be to replace the barrel.
B} The outer running surface of your barrel may have lost it's traction due to glazing, surface contamination or absorption of oil. If your barrel passes the countertop level test, try running some 80-120 grit sand paper across the outer surface of the barrel parallel with the drive roller. Once the entire circumference of the barrel has been "resurfaced" then apply some acetone (nailpolish remover) to a clean rag and rub it across the surface in the same direction. This will soften the rubber for awhile and expose more surface area for better traction and in time, the barrel should "settle in" on it's own, provided it doesn't become more warped over time.
You might try brushing barrel down with brass bristle [soft] welders toothbrush type brush after wiping drive shaft and barrel with acetone.
Try wrapping electrical tape around the barrel cane cane style to increase the traction.
Ways to increase the friction between the drive shaft and barrel:
Your drive roller may have reduced traction due to oil/glazing/residue build-up on it. The drive shaft can be cleaned with light fluid or acetone.
Simple way to increase the friction is to take electrical tape and wrap the drive shaft several times with it. The tape will wear out after a few months. After removing tape, the drive shaft should be cleaned with acetone.
Heat shrink tubing onto the drive roller of a 33a will reduce the slippage of the barrel. After pushing the tubing over the roller, use a heat source to shrink the tubing. Move the heat source back and forth along the shaft until the tube shrinks. Do not hold the heat source in one spot too long.
Make sure the idler roller is free spinning.
Belts and Bearings:
Make sure you didn`t over oil the bearings. They don`t need a squirt of oil, just a drop will do. Too much oil will collect dirt and dust. Look for sewing oil at a repair shop. It comes in a small bottle with a long straw attached.
Lightly sand the belt with 120 sandpaper until the inside is dull and wipe with alcohol.
While the belt is off take a Q tip and put some acetone on a Q tip and clean inside the pulleys where the belt sits.
A can of belt dressing and use as directed when things get annoying.
The following was condensed from a thread at
andy321.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=5234
Barrels:
The issue with the barrels simply not getting enough traction against the bare steel rollers can be solved in one or a combination of a few different ways depending on the cause(s).
A} your barrel walls may be bulging at the middle (barreled) or caving in slightly at the sides (bowed). Either condition significantly reduces roller contact surface area. Test for this by placing the offending loaded barrel on a level counter top on it's side. Shine a light directly behind it and look from the front where it meets the surface for any arcs of light passing under it. Any measurable distance away from the surface is "zero contact" with the drive roller. Rubber castings don't always cure evenly and can deform slightly over time no matter if they are stored or in use. The only way to correct this realistically would be to replace the barrel.
B} The outer running surface of your barrel may have lost it's traction due to glazing, surface contamination or absorption of oil. If your barrel passes the countertop level test, try running some 80-120 grit sand paper across the outer surface of the barrel parallel with the drive roller. Once the entire circumference of the barrel has been "resurfaced" then apply some acetone (nailpolish remover) to a clean rag and rub it across the surface in the same direction. This will soften the rubber for awhile and expose more surface area for better traction and in time, the barrel should "settle in" on it's own, provided it doesn't become more warped over time.
You might try brushing barrel down with brass bristle [soft] welders toothbrush type brush after wiping drive shaft and barrel with acetone.
Try wrapping electrical tape around the barrel cane cane style to increase the traction.
Ways to increase the friction between the drive shaft and barrel:
Your drive roller may have reduced traction due to oil/glazing/residue build-up on it. The drive shaft can be cleaned with light fluid or acetone.
Simple way to increase the friction is to take electrical tape and wrap the drive shaft several times with it. The tape will wear out after a few months. After removing tape, the drive shaft should be cleaned with acetone.
Heat shrink tubing onto the drive roller of a 33a will reduce the slippage of the barrel. After pushing the tubing over the roller, use a heat source to shrink the tubing. Move the heat source back and forth along the shaft until the tube shrinks. Do not hold the heat source in one spot too long.
Make sure the idler roller is free spinning.
Belts and Bearings:
Make sure you didn`t over oil the bearings. They don`t need a squirt of oil, just a drop will do. Too much oil will collect dirt and dust. Look for sewing oil at a repair shop. It comes in a small bottle with a long straw attached.
Lightly sand the belt with 120 sandpaper until the inside is dull and wipe with alcohol.
While the belt is off take a Q tip and put some acetone on a Q tip and clean inside the pulleys where the belt sits.
A can of belt dressing and use as directed when things get annoying.